From an order quantity of approx. 70 items, the processing time of 6 working days cannot be guaranteed. It is still possible to place an order, but it is quite possible that we will contact you regarding a postponement of the delivery date.

Of course you can also contact us at any time and we can make you an offer.

Basically yes, but not to all countries. An overview of all valid shipping destinations can be found on the Shipping & Payment page.

EU countries: Unfortunately, due to disproportionately high costs for the respective packaging licences, it is not possible for us to send physical products to EU countries that are not listed under Shipping and payment.

Non-EU countries: We are currently checking which countries can be shipped to without any problems. Unfortunately, this will take a while. But if your country is not yet listed, but you would like to order from Kleinkram Miniatures, just write us a message and we will check the shipping options as soon as possible.

The processing time for handmade items is a maximum of 6 working days, as they are only made to order. Products in stock are dispatched after 2 working days.

The actual dispatch within Germany usually takes 2 - 4 working days. Within the EU it takes around 2 - 8 working days. Delivery to the rest of the world takes approx. 5 - 20 days. if items with different processing times are ordered, the goods are dispatched in a joint consignment. In this case, the delivery time corresponds to the item with the longest delivery time.

As a rule, our 3D models are saved at a scale of 1:12. To scale them to the desired scale, simply follow the instructions below:

• 1:6 Scale (z.B. Barbie, BJD): Multiply each side (X, Y, Z) with 2
• 1:24 Scale: Divide each side by 2
• 1:18 Scale: Divide each side by 1,5

The exact conditions can be found in the respective licence agreements (personal; commercial).

The most important points in brief:

Personal: personal use only, without passing on to third parties of any kind

Commercial: printed copies may be sold

• Work on a smooth, non-absorbent surface. Glass or ceramic tiles are very suitable for this.
• Roll out the modelling clay as thinly as possible. This not only makes it easier to cut out, but also makes miniatures look more realistic and true to scale.
• Dust the cutting edge of the cutter lightly with cornflour or potato starch (as when cutting out biscuit dough with flour) to prevent it from sticking.
• Chill the modelling clay before cutting. Warm mass is softer and sticks more easily.
• Place cling film between the mixture and the cutter. However, this will result in much rounder edges.
• If the modelling clay is too soft, switch to a firmer material, e.g. Fimo Professional or Kato Polyclay - this will ensure clean results.

This variant has small indentations or bumps on one or two sides, which should be sanded down before painting. This can be done with a nail file, sandpaper or a multi-tool (e.g. Dremel, Proxxon Micromot etc.).

The finer the grit, the smoother your surface will be later on. That's why I usually use a 180 grit sanding sponge to start with and then go over it again with 600 grit (Green Stuff World Foam Sanding Pads Coars Grit Assortment) or 1000 grit (Tamiya Sanding Sponge Sheet 1000).

• Light-coloured resins react to UV light. In the course of time, the parts may take on a yellowish colour - depending on how much natural light they are exposed to. To prevent this, they should be painted.
• Actually, all paints that are suitable for plastics can be used for painting. Personally, I have had very good experience with acrylic (water- or alcohol-based) and chalk paint. But oil paint and nail varnish should also work well.
  Product example: Windsor & Newton Galeria
• To make the paint adhere better to the surface, I recommend applying a primer beforehand. In my experience, however, it also works quite well without.
  Product example: Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
• Ideally, the whole thing is also covered with a varnish after painting. This can be used to create a glossy surface, for example. This is not a must, but it makes the paint more resistant.
  Product example: Liquitex Gloss Varnish

• The mould is heat-resistant up to 200° C for a short time (!). Material such as polymer clay can therefore be baked in the mould (110° C for 30 minutes).
• Epoxy resin can also be used as a filler, but this significantly reduces the service life of the mould, as the resin causes it to crumble over time.
• UV resins are not suitable as the mould should be transparent.